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Fancy Color Is All About Color

I had a visitor to my website (by the name of Tom) write into my Q&A and inquire about the Color of Fancy Colored Diamonds (Which is a TRUE Fancy Colored Diamond, and NOT a Diamond that’s been Heat Treated or Enhanced!)

Most Diamonds have a bit of Color in them to begin with (finding a Pure White Diamond is rare), but Fancy Colors are those where the Color in the Stone is easily seen, or VIVID!

Color that is Strong stands out, and once it does that, it gets Very Rare and Very Expensive.

Fancy Colors are Graded Z+ on the Diamond Color Chart as seen here:

Diamond Grading Color Chart!

Fancy Color Diamond Question

The Question that Tom asked was this:

Hello there, first and foremost I’d like to commend you on a fantastic website! It’s extremely helpful and informative!

Anyway, I would really appreciate it if I could borrow your expertise and advice on a diamond that I’m going to view and hopefully buy after seeing so many after the last month or so.

I’ve been put in touch with a guy in Antwerp (I’m based in London so only 2 hours on the train) who has provided me with details and photos of a nice looking fancy light yellow oval which I think I’m going to view.

I was wondering if you could cast your knowledge over the specs for me and let me know what you think? I have a couple of slight concerns, but from the amount I’ve been searching, I think somethings are going to have to give because for my budget (7.5k – 8k GBP) it’s going to be extremely difficult to find the ‘perfect’ stone. Anyway, the specs are as follows:

  • Oval Modified Brilliant
  • 9.07 x 6.28 x 4.47 (Ratio 1.44)
  • 2.06 Carat
  • Fancy Light Yellow
  • Even Distribution
  • IF
  • Excellent Polish / Very Good Symmetry
  • No Fluorescence
  • Table 56%
  • Depth 71.2%
  • Very Thick – Extremely Thick Girdle
  • GIA

(Similar to the one shown below)

Fancy Light Yellow Oval Diamond!

How much of an issue is the depth going to be? From the looks of things the percentage is on the larger side, so I wondered if this is enough to ‘put someone off’ or make it look odd or be difficult to set? I’ve had very mixed opinions from people on this matter, some have said not to worry at all because ‘it’s just another detail’, while others think it could be an issue.

Also, how much of a problem is the girdle, if any? Again, I’ve had mixed opinions from people who would be completely happy with it seeing as it’s faceted, to others that think it will be too big!

I would hugely appreciate your help and advice if you can spare a few minutes.

Many Thanks, Tom

To which I Responded:

Hi Tom.

It sounds like a great Diamond. The bottom line with Fancy Colored Diamonds is not the Depth, or even Proportions as in Girdle Thickness, it all comes down to Color. Color is the #1 priority. If the Color is beautiful, that’s what really matters. And, for most Diamonds and Gemstones, to bring out Color, the Depth of the stone will be a little bit deeper. You’ll notice that on most Diamond Reports done on Fancies, they don’t include Cut, because with Color they look at Origin, Color Grade, and Distribution. That’s what makes or breaks a Fancy.

If you go to James Allen:
https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/fancy-color/yellow/oval-cut/2.00-carat-si1-clarity-sku-225058/ and look at their Diamond Reports by GIA you’ll see that it doesn’t even list Table or Depth, or even Girdle. It’s really irrelevant. It’s all Color. Color is KING! That’s what a Fancy is. They don’t even list Clarity!

So if the price is right, grab it.

My only other bit of advice would be to see if you could find a stone with deeper color, like Fancy Vivid. Something that really “POPS” Color!
Those are stunning! (and it won’t look like a regular Diamond with a little yellow tinge to it).

I would assume you already read my post on Fancy Colored Diamonds, if not go here:


Good luck. :)

Let me know what you decide.

Tom Replies:

Hi Richard, once again thank you for the advice, you’re very kind to spare me the time! It’s so helpful being able to speak to someone who has the experience required to pass on information such as yours!

I’ve fully taken on board everything you’ve said, it’s pretty much everything I’ve wanted to hear! Regarding the colour, I’m under strict instructions not to go “too yellow“. My girlfriend has been very particular about this, despite not actually looking at any stones with me. She has a twin sister who has helped me on the colour, and we think the ‘Fancy Light‘ shade will be perfect. Again I fully understand what your saying regarding the colour, but I’m sure just ‘Fancy Yellow‘ will be too prominent as she wants it a lot more subtle.

Anyway, as I mentioned, several other jewellers have told me not to panic about the specification of the diamond. It’s a fantastic price of £7750, which compared to other examples I’ve seen in the UK, is considerably cheaper. I’m going directly to the source in Antwerp so hopefully getting something at much better value!

You the man Richard!

Let me Explain more in Depth…

When it comes to Fancy Color, it is ALWAYS about Color!

In fact, it’s almost exclusively Color and nothing else!

Compare a Diamond Report (also called a Certificate) of a Regular White Diamond (D-Z), against a Fancy Colored Diamond. They don’t even appear similar…

Regular GIA Diamond Report

Regular GIA Diamond Report

GIA Fancy Color Diamond Report

GIA Fancy Color Diamond Report

The Clarity Grade is no where to be found!

The Clarity Grade is not on this particular GIA Diamond Report. But, you CAN get different Diamond Reports made, especially with Higher Quality Diamonds, like this VVS2 Diamond Listed Below, and you can get the Clarity Grade with more details like Polish and Symmetry

Fancy Color Diamond Report

For the most part though, additional info won’t be listed. The “CUT” is generally just the “SHAPE” of the stone (Like Oval, Radiant, Round…). Usually it’s just COLOR! That’s all that truly matters!

3 Key Characteristics:

With Color, there are 3 Key Characteristics:

  • The Purity of the Color
  • The Depth of the Color
  • The Distribution of the Color

And this is what they mean:

The Purity of the Color is the actual hue of the Stone. It’s how Pure the Color is. Is the body Color ONE Color, like Green, or is in between, like Green-Blue?

The Depth of the Color is how Light or Dense the actual Color appears. Is the Diamond Light and Transparent, or is it Deep with Color?

The Distribution of the Color is how evenly the Color runs throughout the Stone. Is it Darker on one side than the other? Is there a Clear Spot? Are there Bands of Deeper Hues running through the Diamond?

All these things are what matters the most. That’s what’s important in Fancy Colored Diamonds!

So if you’re shopping and looking at Fancy’s (and James Allen has some incredible Prices on Fancy Colored Diamonds), you can’t even think about the 4C’s in the normal way. It takes a back seat…

Because most Fancies DO have VISIBLE Flaws and Inclusions, like these beautiful stones here…

Fancy Colored Diamonds with Visible Inclusions!

Inclusions like those Black Spots bring out Character and Personality in a Stone. It’s like a bug trapped in Amber. It’s cool! They make a Diamond Different and Unique!

And of course, the Stronger or Deeper the Color is, the BETTER!

Fancy Colors are arranged by a Degree of Intensity as shown here…

Fancy Colored Diamond Range!

So the more VIVID, the more Rare, and the more Expensive!

Check out this VIVID Pink Diamond (Pink is the most rarest of Diamond Colors)… It’s out of this world!

Fancy Vivid Pink Diamond!

So don’t worry about Spots, Lines, Clouds or Feathers in your Diamond.

Concentrate on Color!

Surround a Fancy Colored Diamond with White Diamonds, put them in a Mounting (I prefer White Gold), and the stones will “POP” like crazy! Check out these stunning examples below…

Fancy Color Diamond Jewelry!

Now those are some Beautiful and Colorful Rings, Pendants and Earrings!

That’s what a Fancy is all about! :)

Recommended Jewelry Supplies:

Ultrasonic Jewelry Cleaner Jewelry Steam Cleaner Complete Jewelry Cleaner Kit Diamond Dazzle Stick
Gold Silver Jewelry Polishing Cloths Jewelry Making Supplies Kit Gold Acid Test Kit Watch Tool Repair Kit
Ring Adjusters EMT Emergency Ring Cutter 10x Jewelers Loupe Jewelers Microscope

Recommended Jewelry Supplies:

Ultrasonic Jewelry Cleaner Jewelry Steam Cleaner
Complete Jewelry Cleaner Kit Diamond Dazzle Stick
Gold Silver Jewelry Polishing Cloths Jewelry Making Supplies Kit
Gold Acid Test Kit Watch Tool Repair Kit
Ring Adjusters EMT Emergency Ring Cutter
10x Jewelers Loupe Jewelers Microscope

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