Buying an Engagement Ring?
Read this first…
Because so many people buy diamonds without knowing what it is they’re buying…
Granted, some people don’t care, don’t want to learn, are lazy, or just want to shop by the cheapest price…
It’s NOT the consumer’s fault!
It’s the ads, or website, or flier, or store, or salesperson that’s the real issues at hand.
So many times–most of the time–they don’t tell you or list everything that you need in order to make a good buying decision. You can’t compare diamonds when you don’t know what you’re comparing…
Some stores won’t tell you the “CUT” of a diamond (this happens more than you know).
They’ll list the cut as “ROUND“.
Round is NOT a Cut!
Round is a shape.
Cut is the actual cutting style, as in; brilliant cut, princess cut, radiant cut, oval cut, marquise cut…
So if it lists “ROUND” as the cut; BUYER BEWARE!
DON’T BUY IT FROM THEM!
Because this also means there’s a good chance that other crucial information is withheld.
They’ll conveniently leave out the cut grade (and I’m talking about a single diamond or solitaire here). They’ll also leave out the polish and symmetry, too.
Many don’t list if the diamond is certified (which usually means it’s NOT). And many stores won’t even bring up fluorescence (which can have a huge impact on how the diamond appears).
So when you see a diamond that’s listed as SI2, I, for $1200… (used solely as an example), you may think you’re getting a really great deal, but look deeper. You can’t buy on color and clarity alone… If the diamond has a bad cut (a poor make), has fluorescence, is dark, out-of-round, then it’s not such a great deal after all. It’s not worth it!
You may have been ripped off!
You can’t buy a diamond, especially a single stone for an engagement ring, without knowing ALL of the details (whether you use these details or not, that’s totally up to you, but you should at least have knowledge of them).
Plus, I would NEVER buy a diamond that’s not GIA or AGS certified.
So if you’re shopping for “the ring“, make sure you look for these:
Those are the BIG Characteristics to look for
Those things make up the price of a diamond (not just one or two of them).
And be leery of “RANGES”…
Online websites and catalogs love to list a “range” of color and clarity, too.
Like they’ll say that the stone is SI2-I1.
Or that the color is “Near Colorless” (or even worse, just list it as “white“-as the example shows below).
So What’s the REAL Grade???
It could be anything…
That’s a lot of differences and ranges…
It’s all over the board. Those attributes shown above could change the look of the stone drastically, and the price of the stone by hundreds and thousands of dollars…
Don’t believe me? COMPARE!
Look at these two diamonds below… It’s an eye-opener.
One diamond is an SI2, D, and the other diamond is an I1, J (either of which you could be getting if you bought the diamond listed above)…
Kind of a Shocker!
If you thought you were buying a NICE diamond, you could be sadly mistaken.
You can’t shop like this!
You can’t compare apples to pears, it has to be apples to apples.
Diamonds to Diamonds!
Otherwise, it makes no sense.
This is what you need to do:
- Make sure the diamond is loose first. That way you can view it close up under 10x magnification and see what’s really inside the stone (also making sure that it’s not chipped).
- Try to stick with SI clarity range or higher (so the flaws are not visible to the bare eye).
- Try to buy G-H or higher color (so the diamond faces up white, not yellow).
- Compare-Compare-Compare diamonds of different qualities and similar qualities as well–they all look different.
- Do buy GIA (The Gemological Institute of America)!!! That certificate is so important!
- Try to get a cut grade of “Very Good” or “Excellent” (if you want your diamond to sparkle).
- Make sure the polish and symmetry are graded with “Very Good” or “Excellent“, too (they help a diamond achieve maximum brilliance and scintillation–which are light effects).
- Watch out for fluorescence! I would advise buying “NONE“.
- Do make sure there is a return policy, 100% money back guarantee (just in case).
- Also note: Most diamonds you see online, are NOT the actual diamond that you’re buying. Most online stores use stock photos/sample photos of stones that in no way look like the diamond you’ll be buying. I would only buy one if I could see the stone FIRST! (or at least make sure I could return it without paying massive shipping charges or restocking fees!)
- And do check out either James Allen or Blue Nile if you’re looking for loose certified diamonds (they are the two biggest dealers online, and have the biggest inventories and the best prices around–they have very little overhead, so they can beat most jewelers anywhere!)
So there you go!
Again, make sure that any diamond you buy you scope under magnification (it’s wise to buy yourself a 10x jeweler’s loupe). Look at the stone from all angle and sides. Make sure you compare stones, stores, prices and guarantees, too.
Because NOT KNOWING can be very, very costly. It’s not a great way to get engaged.
I’d recommend some awesome diamonds like these:
And that’s how you become AWARE!
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